Paris Men's Fashion Week F/W 2024 (part 1).
A summary of my days in the European fashion capital.
A Toda Moda is a newsletter focused on Latin American designers. Because I'm living in Germany, I also write about European designers less known in Latin America. I use to write in Spanish, but I decided to create a new section in English to share my work and analysis about Latin-American fashion industry with a new audience. My posts are translated using AI.
From 16 to 21 January, took place the Paris Men's Fashion Week, a week in which the proposals for the autumn/winter 2024-2025 season were presented.
Everyone is talking about the proposals of the big brands, but I prefer to talk about those that I have the chance to see in person. Why? Mainly because having the chance to see the garments, touch the fabrics and talk to the designers is what makes me vibrate. They were intense days, in which I had the chance to go to 4 fashion shows/presentations and visit 3 showrooms.
-Egonlab: the French brand created in 2019 by Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix, presented its collection entitled ‘Only Lovers Left Alive’. With this work, they wanted to expose the theme of dysmorphia resulting from the excessive use of filters and images on social networks. “We wanted to show that sometimes people feel that they don't fit into our society, even though they fit in perfectly. We were interested in highlighting that, before becoming a character that seeks to adapt to the canons of beauty that society imposes on us, you have to learn to love yourself”, Nompeix commented.
To do this, they marked the waist of most of the jackets, something that moves away from the prevailing fluid/straight genderless figure; they worked the twists in some garments that shows the skin. They proposed worn jeans and added beads to the Prince of Wales fabric in order to draw the eye to the figure.
-Ouest Paris: created in 2022 by Arthur Robert, it presented its fifth streetwear collection in which the use of denim, cotton and wool is a priority. For this collection, Robert decided to create garments for everyday wear, which can be worn at different times of the day. What attracted me to this proposal was the choice of materials, with a laminated cotton jacket that looks like vinyl and is very light, coats with combed wool and denim garments from cotton farms grown on eco-farms in Spain.
While Ouest-Paris was presenting its collection for buyers at the Salon Sphère, the presentation for the public and the press took place in a different space, in the style of an electronic party.
-Gunther Paris: the French contemporary luxury brand created in 2019 by designer Naomi Gunther, combines contemporary culture with sartorial technique. For this collection, Gunther presented her collection entitled ‘On the Rocks’, inspired by the atmosphere of the American jazz clubs of the 1920s. The garments are elegant but comfortable, for people who want to show their personality through their wardrobe. The materials used are of high quality and come from dead stocks.
The presentation of the collection was an immersive experience, where guests were in a jazz club environment with live music. Guests were able to view the garments while conversing with the models as they wandered around the space.
-System: is a Korean ready-to-wear brand created in 1990 by The Handsome Group. It is not the first time that the brand has presented its collections in Paris, but it was expected after two years without participating in the Fashion Week. For this occasion, System presented the collection entitled ‘Portrait of Uncertainty’ in which they presented ready-to-wear pieces for men and women on a more traditional catwalk.
In this collection, System presented comfortable, flowing pieces for everyday wear, some of which I found most interesting, such as the frayed trousers, the furry boots and the trousers that had a very nice drape. This fashion show was a real media display, both for the amount of pieces presented and for the party atmosphere that was given to this event.
As you can see, these four brands are very different from each other and each has a different idea of how to present their work. However, they all have in common the desire to appeal to a young audience looking to differentiate themselves from the masses. For some, the focus is on the use of high quality materials and fibres, for others it is a stylish approach. Which one did you like the most?
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A Toda Moda is written in Spanish and I’m using AI to translate it, until I manage to write in English by my own.